قلعة شالي

Shali Fortress is the crumbling heart of Siwa, a labyrinth of a medieval town raised in the 13th century from kershef, a local mix of salt-rock and mud. Its walls rise straight from the modern town centre, a honey-coloured maze of collapsed houses and winding lanes.

For centuries the whole community sheltered inside this fortified warren for protection, until heavy rains in the 20th century dissolved much of the salt-built structure and drove people out. Today you can clamber through the ruins, ducking along narrow passages and climbing to viewpoints that survey the palm groves and desert beyond.

At sunset the mudbrick glows and the call to prayer drifts across the oasis, one of Siwa's most memorable moments. Parts have been sensitively restored, including a cafe and lookout.