Old Market (El Mercato)

The Old Market, known locally as El Mercato, is Sharm's more down-to-earth counterpoint to the polished resort strips: a warren of lanes lined with spice sacks, hanging lanterns, perfume oils, Bedouin silver and mounds of dried hibiscus. This is old Sharm, where locals shop and the bargaining is part of the ritual.

Beyond the souvenirs there's a genuine neighbourhood feel, with a mosque, cheap eateries and coffeehouses that give a truer sense of Egyptian daily life than Naama Bay. It's the place to hunt for spices, cotton, and handicrafts and to practise your haggling.

Evenings are best, when the heat drops and the market lights come on.